A326,Alloy 22X26 Set

 

Seriously light wheels for a great price.  The rims are 26 (19internal) mm wide making them more comfortable and more aerodynamic.  They are strong enough for daily use, fast enough for competitive racing, and light enough for hill climbing.  The silky smooth hubs are comparable in weight to the DT 240's (245 for the rear and 80 for the front). Your choice of Sapim CX Ray or Sapim Laser spokes.  They are completely handbuilt in California using internal washers on the rear drive side spokes - where the vast majority of rim failures occur - making them as strong as 28 or 32 spoke wheels.  The quality of the components is equal to wheels costing twice or three times as much.  You wont' find a set of alloy wheels that perform any better than these.  The rear rim is asymmetrical to balance spoke tensions on the drive and non drive sides.

 

 

 

Size: 700C Clincher (normal road bike)

Weight 1460 grams (without skewers or rim strips)  weights can vary by about 50 grams a set due to rim, spoke, and hub weight tollerances.

 

Rim Material Niobium Alloy - machined braking surfaces.  Sleeved seam.

Drilling: 20 hole front and 24 hole rear

Rim Weight 460 grams

Rim Dimensions 22 mm high 24 mm wide

Rim ERD 588 mm

 

Spokes if Sapim CX Ray 4.1 grams each bladed aero.  Blade is 2.3 mm x 1 mm

Spoke Length Front:  271

Spoke Tension Front: 110-120 KGF (on a Park Tensiometer 13-14 for CX Ray and 18-19 for Laser

 

We use Loctite 242 on the non drive side spokes and on the front spokes during the building process (no lubricant).  On the drive side rear spokes we use a lubricant to build (nothing special - just something slippery) and after the build put some Loctite 242 in to finish them off.   The Loctite 242 will make the spokes harder to turn but will not sieze them.

 

Front Nipples  Alloy 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench

Rear Drive Side Nipples Brass 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench*

Rear Non Drive Side Nipples Alloy 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench

 

Used internally on the drive side rear spokes.  I have them custom made by Boker's in the US.  They provide an extra layer or durability while adding almost no weight.  Weigh less than 1 gram each.

Front over lock nut dimension 100 mm

Front flange diameter:  32 mm

Front center to flange: 32 mm

Rear Over Lock Nut dimension 130 mm (standard road)

Rear Drive Side Flange Diameter:  58 mm

Rear Drive Side Center to Flange:  14 mm

Rear Non Drive Side Flange Diameter:  45 mm

Campy Cassette body - 9,10, or 11 speed compatible

Shimano/Sram Cassette Body - 8,9,10,11 speed compatible

Cassette Body Bearings:  6902 (Two) Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals

Front Hub Weight 80 grams

Front Hub Bearings:  6900 Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals

Rear Hub Weight 245 grams

Rear Hub Bearings:   6802 (both drive and non drive side) Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals

 

Skewers weight 46 grams front 50 grams rear.

 

Black nylon.  If you are going tubeless you need to buy the Stan's rims strips.  These will not work for tubeless applications.

  

With the wider rims, you can use pretty much any tire width you want - from 19 mm all the way up to over 30 mm.  I like 25 mm wide tires simply because they hold more air and are more comfortable.  23 mm tires are probably the fastest and are the most aerodynamic.  As you get bigger tires, the limiting factor is the frame.  Typically the tires will first rub on either the brakes (on the top of the tire) or with the rear tire hitting the seat tube.  Most road bikes will fit up to 25 mm tires, a few bigger ones, and many won't even fit a 25 mm tire.

 

The rim is 25 mm deep but the tubes rests in the rim cavity.  I suggest using tubes that have valuve stems at least 48 mm long or thereabouts.  You will need a presta valved tube (which is by far the most common or road bikes today).

 

With the wider rims you can generally run at least 10% less pressure than with a narrower rim because the system holds more air.  Less pressure is better because you have a bigger tire patch and will roll over the bumps in the road instead of bounce over them (it's that sidewall flex that gives you better rolling resistance).  Most people run too much pressure in their tires because they believe they are faster (and they feel faster at first).  If the roads were perfectly flat that would be the case but they all have lots of bumps so lower pressures make sense.  Generally speaking a 160 pound rider should be around 80-90 psi in the back tire and 75-85 in the front. If you have been running higher pressure you will immediately notice how much more comfortable the ride is and how much better the bike handles around corners.

 

When you receive your wheels it will include a package with the extra spokes, skewers, a spacer (if a Shimano-Sram cassette is ordered) and some documents.  The documents will list the builder and on alloy wheels a serial number (which is under the rim strip near the valve hole on both wheels).  Also included is a spec sheet showing the type and length of spokes used and the spokes tensions for your wheels).  There is also some maintenance info and whatever else I want to throw in there along with a copy of your invoice.  We keep a record of your info here so you can contact us with either your invoice number (preferred), serial number (also OK), or your name and we can pull up your records.