A220TW Alloy Tubular Set

 

 

 In the old days, when 700 C wheels were scarce (27" dominated road bikes and mountain bikes weren't even invented), all performance wheels were tubulars.  The Michelin Elan was the first really small racing type tire introduced in the early 70's.  All racers rode tubulars exclusively.  Dealing with the glue and expense was part of it and no one really gave it a second thought.  Clinchers now have evolved to the point where they can be competitive with tubular tires (especially now with the wider rim versions) but if you want the best performance you need to go tubular.  Both the tires and rims are lighter.

 

Most of our tubulars are sold during cross season where the vast majority of cross racers use them.

 

Ours have our 22 mm wide rim (wider holds more glue and is much better for cross) and, of course, are internal washers on the drive side rear spokes.  They are also seriously light at 1320 grams for the set.  I often ride tubulars and put tire sealant in them.  I find that the sealant will take care of almost all flats and that the only time I need to take a tire off is when it's worn out.  Another great alternative is to carry the sealant with you and if you get a flat instead of changing the tire you add sealant an pump it up.

 

 

Size: 700C Tubular (glued on tires - if you don't know what these are they most likely are not for you).

Weight 1320 grams (without skewers or rim strips)  weights can vary by about 50 grams a set due to rim, spoke, and hub weight tollerances.

 

Rim Material 6066 Alloy - machined braking surfaces.  Welded seam.

Drilling: 20 hole front and 24 hole rear

Rim Weight 385 grams

Rim Dimensions 23mm high 22 mm wide

Rim ERD 594 mm

 

Spokes if Sapim CX Ray 4.1 grams each bladed aero.  Blade is 2.3 mm x 1 mm

Spoke Length Front:  280-281

Spoke Length Drive Side Rear: 280-281

Spoke Length Non Drive Side Rear: 272

Spoke Tension Front: 110-120 KGF (on a Park Tensiometer 13-14 for CX Ray and 18-19 for Laser

 

We use Loctite 242 on the non drive side spokes and on the front spokes during the building process (no lubricant).  On the drive side rear spokes we use a lubricant to build (nothing special - just something slippery) and after the build put some Loctite 242 in to finish them off.   The Loctite 242 will make the spokes harder to turn but will not sieze them.

 

Front Nipples  Alloy 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench

Rear Drive Side Nipples Brass 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench*

Rear Non Drive Side Nipples Alloy 14 gauge uses Park Black Spoke wrench

 

Used internally on the drive side rear spokes.  I have them custom made by Boker's in the US.  They provide an extra layer or durability while adding almost no weight.  Weigh less than 1 gram each.

Front over lock nut dimension 100 mm

Front flange diameter:  32 mm

Front center to flange: 32 mm

Rear Over Lock Nut dimension 130 mm (standard road)

Rear Drive Side Flange Diameter:  58 mm

Rear Drive Side Center to Flange:  14 mm

Rear Non Drive Side Flange Diameter:  45 mm

Campy Cassette body - 9,10, or 11 speed compatible

Shimano/Sram Cassette Body - 8,9,10,11 speed compatible

Cassette Body Bearings:  6902 (Two) Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals

Front Hub Weight 80 grams

Front Hub Bearings:  6900 Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals

Rear Hub Weight 245 grams

Rear Hub Bearings:   6802 (both drive and non drive side) Abec 5 sealed cartridge bearing with seals

 

Skewers weight 46 grams front 50 grams rear.

 

With the wider rims, you can use pretty much any tire width you want - from 19 mm all the way up to over 30 mm.  I like 25 mm wide tires simply because they hold more air and are more comfortable.  23 mm tires are probably the fastest and are the most aerodynamic.  As you get bigger tires, the limiting factor is the frame.  Typically the tires will first rub on either the brakes (on the top of the tire) or with the rear tire hitting the seat tube.  Most road bikes will fit up to 25 mm tires, a few bigger ones, and many won't even fit a 25 mm tire.

 

With the wider rims you can generally run at least 10% less pressure than with a narrower rim because the system holds more air.  Less pressure is better because you have a bigger tire patch and will roll over the bumps in the road instead of bounce over them (it's that sidewall flex that gives you better rolling resistance).  Most people run too much pressure in their tires because they believe they are faster (and they feel faster at first).  If the roads were perfectly flat that would be the case but they all have lots of bumps so lower pressures make sense.  Generally speaking a 160 pound rider should be around 80-90 psi in the back tire and 75-85 in the front. If you have been running higher pressure you will immediately notice how much more comfortable the ride is and how much better the bike handles around corners.

 

When you receive your wheels it will include a package with the extra spokes, skewers, a spacer (if a Shimano-Sram cassette is ordered) and some documents.  The documents will list the builder and on alloy wheels a serial number (which is under the rim strip near the valve hole on both wheels).  Also included is a spec sheet showing the type and length of spokes used and the spokes tensions for your wheels).  There is also some maintenance info and whatever else I want to throw in there along with a copy of your invoice.  We keep a record of your info here so you can contact us with either your invoice number (preferred), serial number (also OK), or your name and we can pull up your records.